Chefs used to be anonymous beyond the confines of their small, steamy empires, which in Europe typically were located in the basement. The idea of a “celebrity chef” would have seemed strange, except in the rare cases of experts recruited to serve the most glittering courts, such as Antonin Careme, who fed the royal houses of England and Russia in the gilded early decades of the 1800s. At that time, wearing a crown was pretty nice work if you could get it, while Careme, “the chef of kings and king of chefs,” frankly complained that the endless hours he and his battalions of cooks spent in hot, airless palace kitchens amounted to slow death