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Restaurant Reviews

A familiar address reinvented

By Frank Sabatini Jr.

Prior to closing the cherished Tractor Room last year, restaurateur Johnny Rivera assured he would hold out for a buyer committed to “enhancing the neighborhood” before selling it.

He made good on his promise with Concept Two Seven Eight, which opened in early January with a concise menu of “new American” cuisine and a cocktail program that puts things like dragon fruit and pink guavas into your glass.

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Sake and sushi on the cheap

Posted: February 24th, 2017 | Featured, Food & Drink, Restaurant Reviews | No Comments

By Dr. Ink Family members visiting from out of town tipped me off to Maki Maki Sushi (formerly Kimiya Sushi), which opened under new ownership about three months ago with some of the best happy hour steals I’ve seen in a while. Situated next to Rubio’s in a cookie-cutter strip plaza at Rosecrans Street and Midway Drive in Loma Portal, the interior offers a touch of style with black granite tabletops, leatherette booths, an aquarium, […]

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French all the way

Posted: February 10th, 2017 | Featured, Food & Drink, Restaurant Reviews | No Comments

By Dr. Ink Several months after the abrupt closing of Croce’s Park West last year, restaurateur Garo Minassian moved in to open Parc Bistro-Brasserie in its place. The Montreal native, who previously operated Harry’s Bar and American Grill in La Jolla, transformed the space into a Parisian-style lounge in the front, and a white-linen dining room in the back. The redesign carries an airy feel with unmistakable European charm.

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‘Little licks’

Posted: January 27th, 2017 | Feature, Food & Drink, Restaurant Reviews, Top Story | No Comments

By Frank Sabatini Jr. Cafes in bustling Italian cities typically cater to five meal cycles: breakfast; lunch; a late-afternoon period for wine and light snacks; dinner; and dessert in the mid-evening hours, when more wine or an end-of-day cappuccino is in order. Locally grown Pappalecco, founded in 2007 by two brothers from Pisa, covers those bases.

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