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Essentially, that smart grown-up is chef Matt Gordon, who opened Urban Solace in 2007 before most people sensed the neighborhood was verging toward a culinary renaissance.

As the name implies, One Door North is located only one door north of its older sibling, The Smoking Goat. Yet it feels an ocean away in comparison, as in the distance between the U.S. and France.

The Taco Stand’s main attraction sits in the front kitchen window. It’s a luscious, cylindrical piling of reddish-hued pork on a vertical spit. A thick ring of pineapple serves as its hat while a pan underneath catches whatever juices escape.